TT 520 
.B97 
Copy 1 



T. W. BYBMBB 



NEW AM) IMPt©¥EB SYSTIM, 



WITH THE:::^5^ 



DRESS-MAKER'S MODEL MEASURE SHEET. 




Price of System CoDiDlete witli Printed Instructions, - $10.00 
Oral Instructions, Extra, from $3.00 to - - - $io 00 

Reasonable Discounts allowed to Ai:;ents ami Teachers. 
For particulars, address 

T. W. BYRNES, 

Manitowoc, Wis. 



li 



/— 



THE DEESS-M^KES'S 

Ihstkugti®! MmK, 

— W'AS INCLUDED IN-w— 

T, W. BYRNES' ■ 

NEW AM IMPEOYIB SYSTEM, 

DRESS-MAKER'S MODEL MEASURE SHEET. 
BY THOMAS W. BYRNES. 



This system is the result of several years' study 
and practical experience in Dress and Cloak-Mak- 
ing and includes the following articles : 

A Draughting Apparatus in two parts, viz : Front 
and Back. 

An Instruction Book containing a Model Measure 
Sheet with illustrations and directions for taking 
Measurements, directions for Draughting, with 
Charts and Figures for reference, and a Measur- 
ing Tape. 



^~ 



It is designed to supply a want generally ac- 
knowledged by the public, viz: a convenient and re- 
liable system, at a moderate expense, by which ev- 
ery person of ordinary understanding can readily 
draught and cut Dresses, Cloaks, Coats, &c., from 
actual measurement. 

The application of the Draughting Apparatus to 
practical use has been thoroughly tested and de- 
monstrated by practical experiments, and nothing 
has been spared to render it at once the most per- 
fect, convenient and reliable. 

It will be found adapted to all the changes of 
Fashion as well as to all Measurements, and by 
carefully following the directions, a perfect fit can 
be obtained in every case, without alteration, where 
the figure is not positively deformed. 

T. W. BYRNES, Inventor. 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1882, by 

Thos. W. Byrnes, in the Office of the Librarian 

of Congress at Washington. 



-V 



PRACTK AL SUGGESTIONS. 



(i.) Measurements. — Measures should not be 
taken over collars, waist trimmings, or any thing 
thick or clumsy. 

The different measures should be always taken 
in their proper order according to the measure 
sheet and always in the same manner, so that ac- 
curacy may be attained by practice. All measures 
should be taken snug and easy, neither drawing the 
tape measure tight nor holding it slack. 

Whether for dresses, sacks or cloaks, the dress 
measurement is all that is necessary. 

For circulars and some other garments the chest 
measure over the arms is necessary and may be in- 
serted on the measure sheet, in the same space 
with the chest measure. 

(2.) Linings. — It is economy to use a good qual- 
ity of lining in dress-making, as the fit of a dress 
depends to some extent on the quality of the lining 
used, as well as the cut^ and it is better to have the 
waist and sleeves lined with the same material. 

(3.) Draughting and Cutting. — A good way to 
draught a lining is to unfold the lining, refold it 
crosswise and press it smoothly before commenc- 
ing to draught. 

When draughting, always bear in mind the fact 
that the different sections and parts of the draught- 
ing apparatus are not intended to serve as stereo- 
typed models in all cases, but that something is left 
to the good taste and judgment of the dress-maker, 



— 4— 

and that the proportion of the sections and parts 
of the draught may be varied, at pleasure, from that 
of the corresponding sections and parts of the ap- 
paratus by enlarging or diminishing any one or 
more of the sections or parts by the scales on the 
apparatus at the different points of measurement, 
and diminishing or enlarging one or more of the 
remaining sections or parts proportionately at the 
same points of measurement. 

Draught the Front first on that portion of the 
goods near you ; then change the lining end for end 
and draught the Back on the other portion, com- 
mencing as near the top or left hand edge as the 
side line of the first side form in the front draught 
will permit. (See chart No. i.) 

The bust form on the front line should be dis- 
pensed with in draughting cloaks, loose-fitting and 
children's garments. Should any measure exceed 
the largest measure included in the scale on the 
corresponding form of the draughting apparatus, 
add as many inches to the form, by the scales, as 
the measure exceeds the scale. 

In draughting cloaks and over garments the dress 
measurement may be enlarged at every point ex- 
cepting the neck, and at any time after the draught 
is completed the neck may be enlarged, re-draught- 
ed, or cut out any shape and size required. 

Before commencing to cut, baste or pin the lin- 
ing securely, so that like parts will be cut exactly 
alike. When cutting, allow for seam everywhere 
excepting at the neck and arms-eye. 



— 5— 

It is better to cut out the bust darts and all 
shape seams. 

(4.) Basting. — Good basting is quite essential to 
success in dress-making. 

In basting the lining on to the top or dress ma- 
terial, lay it smoothly and so that the top and the 
lining will be cut on the sajne grain, and the differ- 
ent sections of both top and lining should be per- 
fectly straio/it 7ulth the grain of fJie goods at the 
ivaist line. In basting the lining on to the top, take 
cross stitches about one-fourth of an inch long and 
about one inch apart. 

In basting up the seams, make short and sub- 
stantial stitches. 

In basting the shoulder seams, hold the back 
toward you and very full from the neck down about 
half way, and the front tight; then the back tight 
and the front full the remainder of the way. 

Sleeves, collars, neck bands, dress braids, and 
gored sides should be held toward the person when 
basting. 

The back should be held toward the person when 
basting the side seams, and before basting the side 
seams the garment should be tested at the chest, 
waist and hip lines, according to the measurement 
at these points. 

The bias or gored sides of skirt breadths should 
always be turned toward the back. 

(5.) Waist Seams.— Clip the waist seams exactly 
on the waist line, trim the raw edges off evenly and 
over cast or bind them with narrow ribbon. The 



edges of the shoulder seams should be turned 
toward the front and the edges of the side seams 
toward the back. 

(6.) Whalebone Pieces. — Make the whalebone 
pieces about three or four inches in length and sew 
them in with the dart seams. 

(7.) Whalebone Casings. — The whalebone cas- 
ings should be made by hemming down bias strips 
of the lining on the seams, after the raw edges are 
finished. 

(8.) Hanging Loops. — Ever\' waist should be 
furnished with hanging loops veil secured at the 
side seams. 

(9.) Designs. — In selecting designs, those with 
high collars, large sleeves, trimmed waists, basques 
and belts in general, full skirts, horizontal stripes 
and trimmings, outstanding ruffles, large sash bows, 
&c., will be found becoming to tall, slender figures, 
and those with opposite features becoming to short, 
stout figures, while as a general -ule all designs are 
becoming to what are termed perfect figures. 

testing the draughts. 

(I.) A front draught for close-fitting garments y 
measured across on the line of the bust from the 
vertical line at the "chest" mark, to the front, ex- 
clusive of the bust form on the front line, should 
equal about one-third of the chest measure ; and 
measured across from the side of the arm's-eye to 
the front line, it should equal one-half of the exact 
width of the front. 



— 7— 

The different sec. ions measured across on the line 
of the waist and taken together, should equal about 
one-third of the ''waist" measure. 

The different sections measured across on the line 
of the hip, and taken together, should equal about 
one-third of the "hip" measure. 

The "front to -vaist," "waist to bust," "front to 
shoulder," "shoulder" and "under arm," should cor- 
respond with the measurement at these points. 

(2.) A back draiight for close-fitting garments, 
measured across on the line of the shoulder blades, 
from the vertical line on the "'chest" mark, 
to the back line, should equal about one-sixth of 
the "chest" measure; and measured across from 
the side of the arm's-eye to the back line, it should 
equal one-half of the exact width of the back. 

The different sections measured across on the 
line of the waist, and taken together, should equal 
about one-sixth of the "waist" measure. 

The different sections measured across on the 
line of the hip, and taken together, should equal 
about one-sixth of the "hip" measure. 

The side, measured from the lower end of the 
arm's-eye line to tiie mark at the lower end of the 
side line, should equal three-fourths of an inch 
more than the "under arm" measure. 

The back to waist and back to shoulder measures 
should correspond with the measurement at these 
points. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING. 



Directions for draughting Front (including under- 
arm gore) for dresses, cloaks, coats, &c., reference 
being had by letters and numbers^ to corresponding 
letters and numbers in Fig. i of Chart No. i here- 
with. 

(i.) The Chest and Neck. — Lay the front part of 
the Draughting Apparatus lengthwise on the mate- 
rial to be draughted with all the sections unfolded 
and the neck and shoulder forms toward the left 
hand; fold sections "F" and ''G" upward, place the 
edges of the large slot in section "A" straight to a 
thread, mark the chest measure by the scale on the 
bottom edges of ''F" and "G," as folded, line the 
left edge of "A" from the neck form down to the 
mark on the edge, line the side edges of the slot in 
"A" and mark the lines i, 2, and 3, (see point a 
and heavy lines i, -?, J,) with the scales on the top 
of the slot in "A," place the ''neck" measure at the 
upper end of line "2," have the edges of the slot 
straight to a thread, mark the neck measure by the 
scale on the top of the neck form and line the neck. 
(See point b and heavy line ^.) 

(2.) The Front to Waist, Waist to Bust, Waist 
to Shoulder, and Shoulder. — After lining the neck 
form, mark the Front to Waist measure by the scale 
on the left edge of the large slot in "A." Slide the 
bottom of the slot even with the mark, the side 
edges of the slot straight to a thread; mark the 



— 9— 

waist line at the front by the bottom edges of sec- 
tions "D" and ''E." ( See point c and heavy lines 5 
and (5.) Mark the Waist to Bust measure by the 
scale on the left edge of the slot in "D;" mark the 
Front to Shoulder measure by the scale on the right 
edge of the slot in "A" (see points d, e); unfold "F" 
and "G;" slide the top of the slot even with the 
Front to Shoulder mark, the top of the neck form 
on a thread even with the side of the neck, the 
edges of the slot straight to a thread; mark the 
shoulder measure by the scale on the shoulder form; 
line the shoulder form from the "neck" mark even 
with the "shoulder" mark. (See point/ and heavy 
line 7.) 

(3.) Anns-eye. — Fold section "C" and with the 
straight edge draw a vertical line through the chest 
measure mark and straight to a thread; with the 
scale on the top of the arms-eye form, place the 
arms-eye measure at the end of the shoulder, place 
the same measure by the scale on the bottom of the 
arms-eye form, at the vertical line, and line the 
arms-eye from the end of the shoulder down to the 
bottom of section "C" (see heavy lines 8,g)', draw 
a cross line straight to a thread and extending to 
the right from the lower end of the arms-eye line 
for the bottom of the arms-eye (see heavy line io)\ 
mark the vertical line up about three-fourths of an 
inch higher than the bottom of the arms-eye and 
with the curved edge on the left of "F," draw a 
curved line from this mark to the bottom of the 
arms-eye. (See point g and heavy line 11.) 



(4.) The Bust Darts.— Yo\A "D," place the lower 
edge of "A" up to the Waist to Bust mark, the side 
edges of the slot in "A" on lines "2" and "3;" un- 
fold "D;" line the left edges of "A" and "D" from 
the mark on the left edge of "A" down to the bot- 
tom of "D" (see heavy Une I2]\ fold "E;" line the 
right edge of "D" from the top down for the first 
dart line; line the lower edge of section "B" and 
mark the "dart's taper" by the scale (see heavy lines 
I J, 14, and point //); slide the top of the second 
dart form up to the "dart's taper" mark, the side 
edges of the slot in "A" straight to a thread, and line 
the left edge of section "F" for the second dart line; 
unfold "E," place its lower edge on the waist line 
between the two dart lines so that the space on the 
waist line between the first dart line and the left 
edge of "E" will be a trifle narrower than the space 
on the waist line between the second dart line and 
the right edge of ''E," mark the width of "E" on 
the waist line and with the curved edges on the 
right and left of "E" complete the darts. (See 
heavy line 75, points i,j\ and heavy lines t6, //.) 

(5.) The Underarm Seam. — Fold section "G," 
place the top end of the scaled edge on the right of 
section "F" at the bottom of the arms-eye, the edge 
straight to a thread, mark the "under-arm" measure 
by the scale and line the edge from the bottom of 
the arms-eye down to the under-arm mark for the 
first seam-line (see point k and heavy line Zc?); with 
the straight edge on the left of the slot in "F," draw 
a cross line extending to the right from the first 



seam-line at the "under-arm" mark and straight to 
a thread, and a similar line from the end of the 
arms-eye line, at the same time marking off the de- 
sired width of seam, (which is usually about four 
inches by the scale on the edge of the slot,) on the 
cross, line at the under-arm mark and on the cross- 
line at the bottom of the arms-eye and half the 
width of this seam on the cross line at the end of 
the arms-eye line (see lines ig, lo, 20, and points 
/, ifi, Ti); draw a second seam line from the mark 
denoting the width of seam, on the cross line at the 
bottom of the arms-eye, down even with the mark 
denoting the width of seam on the cross line at the 
under-arm mark, draw a curved line from the mark 
on the cross line, at the end of the arms-eye line, 
down to the upper end of the second seam line. 
(See heavy lines 21, 22.) 

(6.) T/ie Waist and tJic Side Line. — Place the 
point on the bottom and left of "F" as many inches, 
by the scale on the lower edge of "F," to the right 
of the second dart line as the under-arm seam is 
wide, the lower edges of "F" and ''G" on a level 
with the Under-arm mark and mark the "Waist" 
measure by the scale on the bottom of ''G" (see 
points <?, /,); place the upper part of the right hand 
edge of "G" at the end of the arms-eye line as ex- 
tended to the right and even with the "Waist" mark 
below, and line the side. ! See heavy line 2j?) 

(7.) When no seam is required under the arm : 
See dotted lines 1, 2,j. 

(8.) For a cross seam at the hip : See dotted 



lines 4, j, and in drawing the curved lines use the 
edges of the double dart form in "B." 

(9.) To extend the front line down: Lap a straight 
edge on about one or two inches of the lower part 
of the front line and continue the same down as 
long as desired. See heavy linel' ^^.(^, 26, 2^^ 
28, ^g. 

(10.) To complete the bust darts : With a straight 
edge extend the dart lines down about twice the 
length of the waist to hip measure.^,;.&</A^^«»*y '•^*'^*-^ 

(11.) To complete the Under-arm seam: With a 
straight edge draw a vertical line extending through 
the center of the seam down as long as desired; 
then place the top of the double dart in "B" at the 
lower end of the first seam-line, the right edge of 
the dart up near to the vertical line, and line the 
edge ; then place the top of the dart at the lower 
end of the second seam-line, the left edge near the 
vertical Une, and complete the seam. See heavy 
ImQS 30, 31,3^. 

(12.) To extend the side line at the hip: Sub- 
tract the sum of one-half of the dart's taper, as 
draughted, plus one-half of the width of the under- 
arm seam at the waist line, from the "Gore's-taper" 
measure and with the scale on the edge of the slot 
in "F," measure on the difference to the right from 
the "Waist" mark at the end of the side line and 
mark the same (see point q,) with the straight edge 
on the right of "F ' draw a vertical line extending 
downward from the "Gore s-taper" mark, mark the 
"Waist to hip" measure on this line by the scale on 



— 13— 
the edge, draw a straight line extending from the 
waist mark at the end of the side line down through 
the "Waist to hip" mark (see point r and heavy 
lines jj, j^,); extend this line down as long as de- 
sired. See point s and heavy line jj". 

(13.) For a Front waist with one bust dart: See 
dotted lines <5, 7, 8, g, and with the scale on the 
edge of the slot in "F" measure the dart's-taper on 
the waist line toward the right from the first dart 
line for the width of the dart. 

(14.) For a Front straight and loose at the waist: 
See dotted Hne 10. 

(15.) For a Front-waist with a seam to the shoul- 
der : See dotted Hues 11, 1^, 1^ 1 4, ij, 16, ijj //^ /^ 

(16.) For Under-arm seam shaped for cloaks and 
loose-fitting garments : See dotted lines 18, ig. 

(17.) For Under-arm seam shaped for dresses and 
close-fitting garments: See dotted lines 21, ig. 



Directions for draughting Back of waist, includ- 
ing the side forms, for dresses, cloaks, coats, &c., 
reference being had by letters and numbers to cor- 
responding letters and numbers in Fig. 2 of Chart 
No. I herewith : 

(i.) The Chest and Neck. — Lay the back part of 
the Draughting Apparatus lengthwise on the mate- 
rial to be draughted with all the sections unfolded 
and the neck and shoulder forms toward the left 
hand, the edges of the large slot in section "W" 
straight to a thread; mark the chest measure by 
the lower scale on the bottom edges of sections "X" 



—14— 

and ''Y;" line the left edge of "W" from the neck 
form down to the mark, line the side edges of the 
large slot in "W" and mark the lines z, 2,j. (See 
point a and heavy lines /, 2,j.) With the scale on 
the top of the slot in "W," place the "Neck" meas- 
ure at the upper end of line "2," have the edges of 
the slot straight to a thread and line the neck form. 
(See heavy line 4.) 

(2.) The Back to Waist, Shoulder Blades, Back 
to Shoulder, and Shoulder. — After lining the neck, 
mark the Back to waist measure by the scale on 
the left edge of the large slot in "W," (see point h,) 
slide the bottom of the slot even with the mark, the 
side edges of the slot straight to a thread, and mark 
the waist line at the back by the bottom edge of 
section "Z," mark the Shoulder Blades measure by 
the scale on the left edge of the slot in "Z," mark 
the Back to Shoulder measure by the scale on the 
right edge of the slot in "W" see heavy line 5 and 
points c, d,) sHde the top of the slot even with the 
Back to Shoulder mark, the top of the neck form 
on a thread even with the right hand end of the 
neck line, the edges of the slot straight to a thread, 
mark the "Shoulder" measure by the scale distin- 
guished by the small figures on the shoulder form 
and with the edge on the shoulder form draw a Une 
extending to the right from the end of the neck line 
and through the shoulder mark, to the shoulder 
measure in the scale distinguished .by the large fig- 
ures on the shoulder form and mark the same. (See 
points e,f, and heavy line 6.) 



—15— 

(3.) The Ai^ms-eye. — With the straight edge draw 
a vertical line through the chest measure mark 
straight to a thread and extending from near the 
end of the shoulder down about six or seven inches, 
with the scale on the top of the arms-eye form 
place the arms-eye measure at the end of the shoul- 
der, place the bottom of the arms-eye form on the 
vertical line and line the arms-eye from the end of 
the shoulder down to the vertical line. (See heavy 
lines 7, 8.) 

(4.) The Back Line, Waist, and Side Line. — Fold 
"Z," place the bottom of "W" even with the Shoul- 
der Blades measure mark, the side edges of the 
large slot in "W" on lines "2" and "3," unfold ''Z" 
and line the left edges of ''W" and "Z" from the 
mark on the edge of "W" down to the bottom of 
"Z" (see heavy line p); mark the width of the bot- 
tom of "Z" on the waist line toward the right from 
the back line, fold "Z," place the point on the bot- 
tom and left of "^W" at the mark, the lower edge 
straight to a thread, and mark the waist measure by 
the scale, (see points g and /z,) unfold "Z," fold sec- 
tions "X" and "Y," place number "10" on "X" as 
folded, at the lower end of the arms-eye line, the 
right edge of ''Z" on a thread even with the waist 
mark, mark the under-arm measure by the scale on 
the right edge of ''Z," slide the bottom of "Z" even 
with this mark, the right edge of "W" on the lower 
end of the arms-eye line, and line the side. (See 
point i and heavy line 10. ) 

(5.) To extend the back and side lines down : 



— 16— 

Lap the straight edge on about one or two inches 
of the lower part of the back line and continue the 
same down as long as desired (see heavy lines ii, 
12); with the upper scale on the bottom edges of 
"X" and "Y," measure the Gore's-taper toward the 
right from the mark at the end of the side line and 
mark the same (see heavy line ij and point/); 
with the straight edge draw a vertical line extending 
downward from the "Gore's-taper" mark, measure 
the "Waist to hip" on this line with the scale on 
the right edge of section "F," of the Front, then 
draw a straight line from the mark at the end of the 
side line down through the "Waist to hip" mark on 
the vertical line and extend the same down as de- 
sired. (See heavy lines 14, 15, 16, and points k, /.) 

(6.) For a back with seam to the shoulder: See 
dotted lines i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14. 

( 7.) For a back, with seam to the arms-eye : See 
dotted lines 15, 16, 17, 18. These seams are draught- 
ed similar to the under-arm seam in the Front and 
may be made any desired width. Use the curve on 
the left of "W" and "Z" when draughting the upper 
part of the seam to the shoulder. Use the curve on 
the lower left hand edge of "X'' for the upper part 
and the curve on the left of "Z" for the lower part 
of the seam to the arms-eye. 

(8.) For a back straight and loose at the waist : 
See dotted line 19. 

(9.) For a yoke at the back: See dotted line 20. 



—17— 

When through draughting, always fold the Sec- 
tions of the Draughting Apparatus in the following 
order: 

Front (i.) — D, E, F, and G, upward. 
(2.) — D and A to the right/ 
(3.)— G, F and C, to the left. 
(4.) — G to the right, so that B will be at the 
bottom and G on the top, when folded. 
Back—{\:)—Ys. and Y to the left. 

(2.) — Z upward, so that W will be at the bot- 
tom and Z on the top, when folded. 



-/r- 



Directions for Draughting Front. page. 

The chest and neck 8 

Front to waist, waist to bust. Front to shoulder and 

Shoulder 8 

Arm's-eye 9 

Bust darts lo 

Under-arm seam lO 

The waist and the side line 1 1 

When no seam is required under the arm 1 1 

Front with cross-seam at the hip 1 1 

To extend the Front line down I2 

To complete bust darts I2 

To complete the under- arm seam 1 2 

To extend the side line at the hip 12 

Front with one bust dart 13 

Front straight and loose at the waist 13 

Front with a seam to the shoulder 13 

Under-arm seam shaped for cloaks, &c 13 

Under-arm seam shaped for dresses, tv:c 13 

Directions for Draughting Back. 

The chest and neck 13 

The back to waist, shoulder blades, back to shoul- 
der, and shoulder 14 

Arm's-eye 15 

The back line, waist, and the side line 15 

To extend the Back and side lines down 15 

Back, with a seam to the shoulder 16 

Back, with a seam to the arm's-eye 16 

Back, straight and loose at the waist 16 

Back Seams 16 

Yoke at the back 16 



-/f^ 



I litis Ir at ions. 

Chart No. i 21 

Fig. I 24 

Fig. 2 25 

Measure sheet 27 

Practical Suggestions. 

Measurements 3 

Linings . 3 

Draughting and cutting 3 

Basting. . 5 

Waist and shoulder seams 5 

Whale-bone pieces 6 

Whale-bone casings 6 

Hanging loops 6 

Designs 6 

Testing the Dratights. 

Front draught 6 

Back draught 7 

To fold the Draughting Apparatus. 

Front 17 

Back 17 



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